I worked in professional photography for 15 years; as a designer for Lego for 5 years; in theatre and film design and production in the 80s and 90s and owned my own hobby shop for 7 years.

Now semi-retired I have time to pursue my modelling and photography interests.

I’ve been making models for 50 years and still haven’t got it quite right—but still trying. On this site I will endeavour to show what I consider the best of my work, and the painting and weathering techniques I have developed over the years.

120 thoughts on “About

  1. Hi Chris,
    Are you still doing commission builds like you did in 2005 according to HS features? I am a huge fan of the FW 190 D9 and the TA 152 and your models are the best I have seen.
    Many thanks

    • Hi Stefan,
      Yes I still do the odd commission build but I have become very expensive. I am trying to do more stuff for myself these days. Thanks for the kind words.

  2. Hi Chris,
    Thanks for the feedback. Your models are really outstanding, they are looking unbelievable close to the real ones in the books and even better than the drawings in the Eagle-Edition and Japo books and this means a lot. Can you tell me how much a commission build matching your FW 190 D9 piloted by Hans Dortemann in 1/48 or 1/32.
    Cheers Stefan

    • Hi Stefan,
      I really don’t want to do commissions these days, but if I do the minimum charge (1/48) is $1000.00 plus expenses. Expenses include the cost of the kit, materials, postage and insurance.
      Hope this puts you off.
      Cheers Chris.

      • Hi Chris! Long time no see! Hope you are well mate and of course still doing awesome work. Saw lots of your pics in finescale modeller or one of those sites over the years. You still around northern beaches or northside? I still have a bunch of kits from your shop and other new acquisitions getting through them slowly at random, flying rc and many other crazy projects. Take care and hope to catch up again.

  3. Well Hello Mr Wauchop!

    Rhys here, excellent to see you have a website up. I still regale stories of Wings’n’Things.

    • Hi Rhys

      I’m sitting watching Sumo wrestling on TV in Japan. Great to hear from you! Unfortunately, I have tried to wipe Wings’n’Things from my memory but have failed.

      Keep in touch! Cheers Chris

  4. Hi Chris

    I’ve just come across your excellent website. It’s great to catch up with you again (“virtually”) and to enjoy your inspirational models.



    • Great to hear from you Adrian. I was actually thinking of you last month when Deidhre and I were in Japan. Could have used your language skills while watching TV and when shopping in Tokyo.

      Hope you are well


  5. Hi Chris,

    Please let me know if you would consider a commission build. The level of realism you have achieved is incredible, and I’d love to have you build a Marseille’s W.Nr. 8673. Please let me know.


  6. Hi Tyler,

    Glad to hear your positive comments and thanks for your interest. Unfortunately at the moment I have a backlog that I am very slowly working my way through. I’ll certainly let you know if that situation changes.

    All the best,


      • Oi Chris!
        Do que trata este blog? Fotos sobre trabalhos de plastimodelismo? Ou vocês são todos plastimodelistas e colocam seus trabalhos aqui?
        Na minha opinião, só há fotos/trabalhos feitos por ‘feras-do-modelismo’!

      • Hi Luiz,
        Sorry mate, but at the moment this blog is purely a self-indulgent vehicle to show off my work. I don’t want it to become to unruly, so for now it’s all about me!



  7. Hi Chris!
    The translation is a little bad, and my english sucks. However I understand that the blog is yours and all your works are. Confirm?
    If so, congratulations! You do a great job!
    I have a tripod 1/144 – Pegasus client to do, and researching the colors on the internet, I came to your blog. Were the best pictures I found, and I already downloaded to start printing my work.
    A hug and thank you!
    Att Luiz Fernando Chaves

    • Hi Luiz,
      Just to confirm that yes they are all my own works and, if I remember correctly, the base colour I used for the Tripod was Alclad Dark Aluminium.

      Hope this helps a bit,


  8. Hello Chris:

    I really appreciate your work and am glad you got this website up and running. I have a few questions about your techniques I hope you would be kind enough to answer.

    What method do you use to “flatten” aircraft wheels to get the weighted look? And how do you get the flattened portions lined up properly with the ground and mounted on the gear correctly?

    When you assemble link-to-link armor tracks (like Dragon Magic Tracks) what type of jig do you use to get them lined up? Do you assemble and paint them on or off the vehicle chassis?

    Thanks for your time. Superb work.


    • Hi Scott,

      I’m very glad that you like the site and I will endeavour to answer your questions as succinctly as possible.

      My method for flattening tyres is pretty simple and came about because I was not happy with the aftermarket offerings that were available at the time which always seemed to be way overdone. So with the wings and fuselage basically assembled I loose-fit the undercarriage legs (including the tailwheel). The wheels are then positioned, without glue, on their corresponding axles. The model is then placed on a flat surface making sure that the wheels are sitting at the correct vertical angle. I then simply draw a line along the side of the tyre with a graphite pencil held lying flat against the same surface. Using this line as a guide for the angle I begin, carefully and gradually, removing the bottom of the tyre. My preferred tool for this job is medium/coarse bastard file. 240 wet and dry is very good as well. Always keep test fitting the wheels because it’s easy to take too much off but a real pain in the neck to put it back on!

      As for the assembly of armour tracks, the only guide I have ever used is a steel ruler and this only for link- and-length which have to be glued together. This type are painted once they have been glued to the vehicle. Working tracks, on the other hand, are always assembled and painted before fitting.

      Hope this is answers your questions,

      All the best,


      • Absolutely spot-on, thanks.

        So, if you glue the link-and-length tracks onto the vehicle and then paint them, do you paint them with a regular brush? If with an airbrush, how do you paint the interior faces of the tracks, and how do you not get the track color on the road wheels and hull/fenders?

        Are these questions OK for your “About” section, or would you prefer them to be posted on your main page in response to a subject they apply to? I may be asking more questions in the future, if you don’t grow tired of answering them, as you are a master in your field.

        Again, many thanks.


      • Hi Scott,
        Once the tracks are attached to the running gear I paint them with a very thin mix of black/grey/brown using a small flat brush. After this is dry various shades of pastel chalk dust are applied. The colour of these, obviously, depends on the theatre of operations that the vehicle is situated in.
        Please feel free to ask these questions in any section you wish. Keep ’em coming and I will always be happy to answer your questions to the best of my ability.



    • Oi Cris!

      O resultado do teu trabalho demonstra que só podia vir de um bom currículo histórico! Parabéns! Sobre o meu tripod, estou findando a parte do projeto elétrico, se quiseres, quando ficar pronto posso te mostrar. Tudo de bom! Um abc Chaves

  9. Hey Chris,
    That 190 is inspiring! So I bought the kit. I have yet to look for the build log. Does one exists? I have a Samsung Zoom camera phone. It takes a decent photo. I’m hoping I can get results close to the quality of yours with it.

  10. Hey Chris, good to see you have a blog! What about all those models you had on display at Absolute Hobbies… I recall the 1:72 Me 410.. I still on occasions pass by where the shop used to be, oh my, all those models I bought from your shop (er many still stored away in boxes unbuilt) fun days …. well for some! Weird bunch us modellers… brrrrrrr. Simon

    • Great to hear from you Simon. I think the 410 you recall was 1/48. Never mind, I know it’s getting more difficult for us weird old codgers to remember that far back. The old shop’s second story is a legal brothel owned by Russian Mafia according to the estate agent. Glad to be out of there, retirement is much more fun.

      Keep in touch



  11. Hi Chris!

    First of all, telling you that It´s an honor for me to write to you; I consider you are one of the best modelers all over the world.

    I´ve seen your long list of works on Hyper scale and Osprey Publishing and I have to tell you that I love your way of doing model Kits: well assembled, well painted, very cared and very well detailed. All these characteristics produce very credible and realistic model kits which are the real challenge for every modeler.

    Chris, as I said above, nice to see your coming jobs and here you have a fan.

    • Hi Oscar, thanks for your very kind words. I am still adding to the list but just a bit slower these days. Working on the Tamiya 1/32 Corsair at the moment and adding lots of extra detail to the cockpit and engine. A lot of fun but it’s taking a bit longer than I thought. Still very satisfying though.
      Great to have you as a fan and keep watching this space.


  12. Hi Chris excellent work but you’ve probably heard it all before.The Medusa is stunning and the Tripod paint job well what can I say which brings me to the question ? do you still take on commision work if so I would dearly love to commision a Medusa from you,indeed it can be identical to the beauty you created or a variation Looking forward to your reply Many thanks. Steve. Ps. Beutiful work

    • Hi Steve, yes but I still like hearing it. As for doing commissions, I do but not too many these days. I’m very slow and my fees are pretty high. Also I’m not sure about the availability of the Geometric kit these days. Let me know if you already have the kit or can get one and I’ll give it some serious consideration.


  13. I’ve been looking for your kits for years.
    A true “maestro” to say the least.
    Kind regards from Salamanca (Spain)

    • OI Chris!

      Teu trabalho é uma referência para mim! Parabéns! Deus te abençoe! Att Chaves

      2016-04-19 20:10 GMT-03:00 STATIC CAPITAL :

      > Jeremy Beckett commented: “Hi Chris, I’m trying to reach you to talk about > your LEGO days. I’ve messaged you on FB – can you get in touch please?” >

  14. G’day Chris,

    Used to buy Verlinden and Kirin 120mm figurines from you at Absolute Hobbies. Spent a decade living in the Middle East and want to get back into it. Any suggestions where I can buy and modify?


    Brett boyle

    • Hi Brett, I bet you’re glad to be home. As for shopping , I’m doing most of mine on line these days.But if I do want to go to physical shop I make a day of it and drive up to Frontline Hobbies in Newcastle. A great shop with a huge range of products and worth the drive. Check ’em out on line first.
      All the best and keep in touch,

  15. Hey Chris,

    It’s hard being an 18 stone redhead in Saudi Arabia. Not easy to blend in lol

    I learned Arabic to know when take cover. Just kidding. I think ?!?!?

    Ok cool re Newcastle, do they sell resin or just plastics like dragon? Also, what’s your recommendation on putty etc these days?

    Sorry for all the questions however you’re the next best sculptor and painter to Bill Horan 🙂


    • Also, forgot to ask, where online should I look? Was looking at the Verlinden site, just wondering if there are some others that you could recommend?

  16. Hi Chris, Remember me, Julian Smallwood from Jupiter Models at Brookvale, would be good to get in touch with you again, many moons have passed and I have long ago left the film industry and Sydney. I have been satisfying my creative needs with going back to building plastic aircraft kits and have been searching for clues on how to do it properly and have often thought of the work you used to do but had forgotten your surname. Until tonight, looking for guidance on building the 1/32 mossie that I bought a couple of months ago and about to start, when your name came up in a search!
    Cheers Julian

  17. Hello Chris,

    Me too, I consider you as one of the best modellers on this planet. Your weathering style is extremely realistic and not overdone like on many others work.

    Is there anywhere a publication or online tutorial where you share your secrets with a detailed step by step description of techniques and materials used? It would be great to learn from you.

    Best regards
    www. vintageeagle.com

    • Hi Roger,
      I am extremely pleased, and humbled, that you would hold me in such high regard.
      As for your question regarding publishing my techniques, several years ago I wanted to produce a video explaining and showing all this but no one was interested so the idea was shelved. Over the following years my enthusiasm for the idea faded so I suppose it will never happen. I will try to make my descriptions on this blog more informative from now on.

      • Chris:

        I agree with Roger, your work is superb and I always look forward to seeing the “how to” of your model kit work along with the finished article. I still have the video you did with Brett Green for his Testor’s Scale Workshop many moons ago on how to thin Luftwaffe colors for scale model application. You guys were like a couple of school lads giggling your way through the shoot, which made it real and amusing.

        Keep up the superb work and the more detailed step-by-step guidance you can give us, the better.



  18. Chris,

    Thank you for your great website. I am a filmmaker in Los Angeles taking my first steps into aircraft model building with a 1/48 Trimaster Dora. I wanted you to know that your work inspired my choice of kit as well as subject, “Red 1.” I have started a build log on the website SPA Modeler, and the forum is extremely helpful and kind to my efforts. I know I am more earnest than experienced, however it is important to me that you know my story. I salute you for your work as well as your photography, and wish you the best.

    • Hi Bruce,
      I really love to hear that I have been inspirational and would be very interested to see your D9. That old Trimaster kit is a pretty high mark to start at! It was a real favourite of mine back in the 90’s and I built two or three of them. I’m always happy to offer any help I can give or to answer any questions you may have, either here or on Facebook, so don’t hesitate to give us a shout.

      All the best,


      • Hi Chris,

        I was stoked to read your message. I feel very humble and a little shy about sharing what I am doing with modifications to the Trimaster kit. It was suggested to me by another forum member to check out the Hobby Boss version of the Dora instead, but I sort of fell in love well I really did fall for the Trimaster kit, especially after seeing one of your Ta 152 H-1 builds.

        Here is the link to my progress so far!


        I am modifying MDC resin parts designed for the Tamiya version to work with Trimaster.

        I have to also mention how incredible your model photography is, the care and discipline you show in your work is inspiring, too.

  19. Dear Chris, built up Novotnys Fw 190 A5 just now… just thinking about the yellow spinner spirals – Your A5 has a spinner spiral (yellow), Eagle decals says WITHOUT – Have you had a reverence for your choice ?! Thanks Pat

    • Hi Pat, the only references I could find of Fw 190 A5 W.Nr 0150 1501 indicated that the spinner spiral was yellow. After lengthy searching of the Internet I decided to go with the beautiful colour profiles included in Kagero’s JG 54 decal set. If Eagle decals have better reference I would be very interested in seeing it.

  20. Hi Chris, Thanks for the fast reply – So far I worked with the EagleCals EC 83 set and its paint scheme for the “white 4” (reference photos of Jerry Crandall) – Main difference to Kagero book is the spinner spiral and a bit the upper wing scheme… Guess the best option is, that I will make TWO spinners 😉

  21. hi Chris
    I have about 1k invested into a 1:16 008
    King Tiger build
    may i take a few minutes of your busy
    schedule to discuss your 1:35 version ?
    thanks doug reiter

  22. Hi Doug, I would be pleased to discuss my model with you but as I live in Australia, it would have to be through this blog.


  23. Hi Chris, 1st off I have to say I really appreciate your artistic work. I’ve been studying WW2 aircraft modelling and my personal belief is that you have produced some works as good as (if not better) than anyone. If you don’t mind, I’d love to ask you a few questions and hopefully you can find time to respond.
    1) Do you shade your panel lines before laying down the base color? Or do you paint the panel lines with a thin spray after the base color goes on?
    2) What is it you do with a 2B pencil on the panel lines? Are you talking coloring the rivets or are you coloring in the actual lines? Please clarify.
    3) Do you have any step by step of your personal process published anywhere that I can purchase?
    Thanks for your time 🙂
    Robert- Nanaimo, BC Canada

    • Hi Robert, in answer to your questions I definitely do not pre shade panel lines. I do post shade along panel lines and around any raised detail with a very thin mix of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and XF-64 Red Brown in the air brush on its finest setting.
      The intensity of this shading dose vary according to the condition of the subject. What I am trying to represent with this method is the build-up of dirt and grime etc.
      I only use a 2B pencil on light colours, usually the undersurfaces of aircraft. I always shade over these lines with the black/brown mix to knock back the metallic sheen.
      Panel lines on darker colours are usually carefully painted using a very fine brush and a very watery mix of Tamiya X-18 Semi Gloss Black acrylic. I do sometimes use oil washes but this is almost always on armour.
      As for any publication where this is described, there was something in one of Brett Green’s early Osprey books but I think this is long out of print.
      Hope this helps, if not I am always happy to answer any more questions you have.


      • I very much appreciate you taking the time to respond and I look forward to your next work.

  24. Hi Chris, Your models and photography are the most inspiring I’ve seen yet! I was wondering if you can provide a quick description of the lighting you use for your model photographs? Thanks in advance, Scott

  25. Hi Scott, I’m really pleased that you find my stuff inspiring. In answer to your to your question the main subject shots are taken in my wife’s art studio which has fantastic natural filtered light coming through a complete wall of glass windows. This light is not always that bright but I do use a very good Canon EOS 5 camera with a 50mm Macro lens that I can close down to f 32. This allows me to pull the maximum depth of field but does mean I have to use a slow shutter speed, To avoid camera movement I have the camera mounted on a tripod and use a remote shutter button.
    I hope this answer is helpful.


    • Hi Chris, thanks for the response, it is very helpful. One more question if I may. I notice in your builds you apply the weathering before the decals. Many modellers (myself included) apply a gloss coat (like Future) to the whole model before the decals – do you do that as well after the weathering? I ask because I’m wondering if a couple of coats of Future followed by a matt coat would have an adverse effect on your (excellent) weathering effects. Thanks again, Scott.

  26. Hi Scott, I usually do not gloss coat the whole model, just the specific areas where decals are going to be placed. This way I can avoid glossing over most of the weathering that I have already done. Of course this means that I do have to add weathering over the decals where necessary. I then give the entire model a matt coat. Some tweaking of the weathering is usually needed after this. Having said all this, I do sometimes apply decals before I do any weathering at all but I still only gloss the areas where the decals are to be applied. Just depends on the model and my mood.
    Sorry that I can’t be more definite but that’s the way I do it.


  27. Chris:

    How do you get such a tight demarcation with your camo colors? I noticed on your Tempest and Mosquito builds the tight pattern. This is one aspect of model building I am still trying to master.


  28. Hi Chris! are you still using the Aztec airbrushes? Seems the quality has eroded immensely since the days I got one from you as I had to buy one last year and its stopped working. The one I got was the cheapest but I am considering getting the top shelf one..finding it difficult to get any advice or opinions as no one seems to use them now?? Long time no see, All the best mate James (Yunkers)

    • Great to hear from you Jimmy, and yes I do still use the Aztec, in fact it’s the same one I was using when I sold you yours and it’s still going strong. You are right though the quality of the current products certainly has gone down the drain. Recently I purchased a new one so I could have two running simultaneously and it has turned out to be a piece of shit!!! Even the new nozzles aren’t much good. If I were you I’d save up and get something good like an Iwata or something similar. Sorry to be so negative but it is still great to hear from you after all these years.



      • Chris, Thanks for the quick reply…I got myself a Paasche just before I bought the latest Aztek but that stopped shooting after about 2 weeks and I couldn’t unclog it, BNA were really good they just refunded my money..so have been in a quandry. Been looking at the Grex ones so I think i’ll go with one of them(the original Azteks are hard to beat!) if your ever up my way, give me a hoy! Live in Brunswick Heads nowadays…Yunkers

  29. Hey Chris, your work is truly inspiring and what I consider to be the gold standard. I know you mentioned that you almost produced a video of your techniques in the past and it’s a shame that didn’t happen. I’m dying to know your painting process! It looks like you just paint the base colours with no preshading or marbling or any other of the techniques out there then just go into weathering. How are you able to get such amazingly realistic results with your paint? I’m dying to know your process.

  30. Hi Chris, I’m really glad you like my stuff and as you say I do not pre-shade or marble my work. My method is to do the basic painting with the airbrush set to a medium fine width and try to achieve a slightly uneven coverage. This to my eye gives a fairly subtle scale effect. Once this is dry I very carefully go over all the recessed detail on the lighter lower surfaces with a very sharp 2B graphite pencil and on the darker upper surface detail I apply an extremely thin, watery black acrylic paint pin wash using a 0000 paint brush. When all this is done I use the airbrush to very subtly post shade this detail using my mix of red brown and black thinned till it is translucent. I use progressively heavier coats of this thin mix to gradually build up the darker oil and exhaust stains and general dirt and grime. Good reference of your subject is essential when trying to achieve a realistic result and for this I find the internet is very helpful.
    I hope this answers your question and if you have any other queries please give us a yell here.



    • Thanks so much Chris, this is extremely helpful. Keep up the amazing work I really look forward to your posts. Your latest p40 is absolutely gorgeous.

  31. Hi Chris,

    I want to first say that before I start a project, I review this site. It truly inspires me, and I want you to know that you have brought great realism to this hobby. My question is: once you have applied your base colors, and prior to adding your mix of Tamiya black and brown, do you apply any type of overcoat? Would you suggest an overcoat when applying oils? Thank you again.

  32. G’day Nick,
    I’m really pleased to hear that you find inspiration in what you see here and you’re right, what I’m striving to achieve is to make ’em look as realistic as possible. To answer your question, I do not apply any gloss coat before I very carefully brush paint the model’s recessed detail (panel lines etc.) using a very fine brush and an extremely watery mix of Tamiya X-18 semi gloss black acrylic paint. I do give a selective gloss coat to the areas where the decals are to be applied. The only time I do use oil washes is on armour models and I usually give the entire model a coat of acrylic clear gloss before application of the oil paint.

    Hope this answers your question. If not feel free to ask for more info.


  33. Hey Chris, I noticed in a post on this page you said you only spot apply gloss to where decals are going to be placed. Seems logical for the larger markings but do you do this for all the little stencils and whatnot too? Also does this cause darkened areas on the paint in the spots you applied the gloss? I’m really searching for a process so I don’t have to fully gloss coat a model, It always find it just ruins any subtlety in the paint work.

    Thanks in advance!

  34. Hi Chris, I do only gloss the areas where decals are to be applied, this includes all decals- large and small. I do try to keep the gloss coat restricted to these areas. I only use this process when the paint is matt and as I use mainly Gunze Sangyo acrylics, which are usually semi gloss, not much gloss coat is required. If the paint is particularly flat I do first polish it with a fine Micromesh 8000 cloth and then give the area a quick squirt of gloss. After giving the whole model a coat of matt I don’t have any problems with dark areas.

    Give it a try.


  35. Hi Chris, I have seen your works for years and they are simply superb! I cannot believe that you do this with an Aztec airbrush. Do you still use these? I have a couple of them that I’ve had for years that I don’t use and would like to go to a good home.

    • Yes Mark I have been using an Aztec, of one sort or another, for the past 25 years! I have been using my current Aztec for at least 20 years and it’s still going strong. It’s the devil I know I suppose.

  36. Hey Chris!

    Like many others I am awed by your ability to produce incredibly realistic models and I am am constantly checking the site in anticipation of another build. Your work is flawless!

    I have a question in regards to your chipping technique, which seems to be done solely by prismacolor pencil. I am floored by your ability to create such accurate wear patterns with this method. As to the type of pencil, what kind of prismacolor do you use? I see several different ones, such as verithin and soft core. I tried looking through your builds but never caught the type. I am also curious about the technique with the pencils that produce such great chipping. You do such a great job with both individual chips and the larger worn areas. Is there a difference in how you achieve this or is it simply drawing the chip on?

    Super awesome work, and I agree that you are one of the best modelers out there, certainly my favorite for ultra realistic builds! Keep it up!


  37. Hi Matt, the Prismacolor pencil I use is called Metallic Silver PC949 and I always get the pencil as sharp as I can using a good rotary pencil sharpener. For fine chipping I start by applying one scratch at a time and building them up gradually until I’m happy with the way it looks. If I’m not happy the marks can easily be removed with a wet cotton bud. For larger worn patches I simply mark out the appropriate area and colour them in. I then outline these larger solid silver patches using a very fine brush and a very thin black wash. Some dirtying-up of these areas is then done using the airbrush set very fine and my thin black/brown mix.

    I hope this explanation is of some help.


  38. Hi Chris! Another fan of your work, like others have said I often check to see how you approached a particular kit to see what can be done with it. I have tried (mostly in vain) to emulate your weathering techniques as I find them quite realistic. If I may ask a question regarding your recently completed 1/48 Tamiya P-38? I am getting ready to paint mine, and am impressed by how you tackled the effect of the worn taped over panel lines on the aircraft. I am trying to find a reference to how much of the aircraft was taped over in this manner. Was it just the nose, engines, landing gear bays, and cockpit? Or the entire airframe? I just wanted to see if you had any sources for how this was done.


    • Hi Frank, until I was asked to do this one I hadn’t really payed any attention to this particular feature, but after careful study of photos of the subject and other aircraft, I wanted to find as much reference and information about it as I could. Searching through the internet I was only able to find pics of the centre wing, fuselage, nose, gear doors and engine cowls. I couldn’t find any clear pics showing the outer, upper or lower wings or the tail booms so any of the ‘tape’ detail showing in these areas is pure assumption on my part.

      Sorry I can’t be more definite than this Frank but I’m sure a more intensive search of the net would yield more info.

      Cheers ,

  39. Thank you so much Chris, I appreciate your honest assessment. I think I’ll press on and follow your lead (though WAY behind you lol).

  40. Hi Chris, I have a question regarding cleaning your airbrush (you still use the Aztek A470, right?). Is there any special procedure you follow? Or any special cleaning agent you use? There are some guides you can find searching the net, relating specifically to Aztek, but since you’ve been using it for so long, I just thought, you might know better 😉
    Thanks in advance

  41. Sorry I didn’t see this earlier Tomasz I can only blame a bit of cabin fever brought on by the shutdown. To answer your question- Yes I do still use the Aztek (two in fact) and the cleaning routine I use is to, first, spray straight thinner through the dirty nozzle until it shows clean. This is done when changing colours. For finale clean-up I remove the nozzle and dismantle it into its three main components and place them into a small, resealable container filled with the appropriate thinners and leave it to soak until the next project. I do also clean the inside of the nozzle attachment area at the front of the brush with a cotton bud soaked in thinners.
    Once or twice a year I pull the whole thing apart and give all the components a good soak and scrub clean with lacquer thinners. This is a big job and usually takes about half a day.

    Hope this answers all your queries.


    • Hi Chris,
      Thanks for your quick answer and sorry for troubling you with my questions. You mentioned several times here on Static Capital, that you use isopropyl alcohol for thinning Tamiya and Gunze/Mr. Hobby H paints. Are you also using other paints/thinners as well, like lacquer paints? I’m asking because I’ve seen some users advising not to use lacquer thinners with Aztek due to its plastic components. I was just wondering if this can have any adverse effects.

      Regards, Tomasz

      • No trouble at all Tom. I do use Alclad metallic lacquers and when I do I use Tamiya Lacquer thinners with absolutely no problem. I also have used much stronger lacquer thinners in the past when cleaning and there were absolutely no problems at all. Testors guaranteed that all the components of this airbrush are resistant to all commonly available solvents and I have never had a problem in this regard.

      • Having new floor covering done in my workroom and Dee’s studio at the moment so everything is on hold until they’re finished. I think a 1/48 Eduard FW 190 A-8 Rammjaeger will be first off the rank.

      • Very interesting! Now, I can’t wait to see it’s finished! 😉 Correct me if I’m wrong, this is going to be your first effort with Eduard kit, right?

      • Sorry to butt in here Tomasz but the newer Aztecs have plastic components on the inside and don’t stand up to harsher thinners as I found to my chagrin when using Acetone to clean a replacement one I purchased which lasted about 3 months as compared to the one I got from Chris which lasted 20 years. When I pulled apart my older one it had brass components inside so maybe check on that! James

      • James, thanks for mentioning that. On a side note, this sad tendency affects most commodities we buy now. This things are nowhere near the same stuff you bought at the end of last century, in terms of quality and longevity. But coming back to Azteks, I’m aware of that fact. The couple of Azteks I have, I bought some ten years ago from US, and they were new old stock (they came with instructional video tapes, as sold by Testors in 1990s I believe). They do have plastic components, but as far as I know they all did after Testors bought Aztek. I haven’t been using them extensively, so nothing wrong happened so far, and I hope they come from this better production series. As a matter of fact, I recently bought Aztek 3000s – the original Aztek produced airbrush, predecessor of A470, and this one has bras components inside, although I havent check that since it can’t be disassembled as easily as A470.
        Regards, Tomasz

      • Cheers Tomasz…the old Aztecs are unsurpassed! and yes a lot of the stuff we buy nowadays is meant for the bin ! Look forward to the Ramjaeger Chris!

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