I worked in professional photography for 15 years; as a designer for Lego for 5 years; in theatre and film design and production in the 80s and 90s and owned my own hobby shop for 7 years.

Now semi-retired I have time to pursue my modelling and photography interests.

I’ve been making models for 50 years and still haven’t got it quite right—but still trying. On this site I will endeavour to show what I consider the best of my work, and the painting and weathering techniques I have developed over the years.

104 thoughts on “About

  1. Hi Chris, i’m a huge fan of your work and i have been coming here four a couple of years now and you are a constant reference. I’m starting the 1/48 Tamiya Hien and i’ve been looking yours for hours and i find it amazing the way it looks so realistic..I will try your paint approach on it .I would like to ask you about riveting on this project… I’ve noticed that you don’t rivet the newer tamiya models and i was wondering why? You find that new tamiya models don’t need the extra rivet work? The question is focused on the why in some projects rivets are a must… and in others not so much. Cheers and thank you for your inspiring work.

  2. Hi Chris, After all these years I remember our time together in Australia’s LEGO model room.. I guess it was brought to mind by the silly LEGO stuff on TV.. Knowing how long it took to conceive, design, and build models I doubt what they build is done in the alleged time. The number of models you have built and painted and photographed shown in your archive is amazing. I’m glad you had the joy of filling you life with what you love.
    Hope you are well. Best regards, Peter.
    I don’t know whether you use Faceache much but just sent you a request.

    • Cheers Pete, the best job I ever had. Wish it had’ve lasted longer. People are still fascinated when I tell them about my time there. The TV show gives me the thrippenny bits and I refuse to watch it, much to my friends amazement.
      Great to here from you Pete,
      Stay in touch, Chris.

  3. Hi Chris, thanks again for posting your work, I find your weathering effects the most realistic I’ve seen. Reading about your techniques, I have a question about the black wash you use for panel lines, which I think you said was Tamiya Semi-gloss Black X-18. What do you mix it with to make the wash, water, Tamiya’s X-20A thinner, or something else? And when you apply it, do you have issues with those dreaded “tidal marks” where the wash creeps out of the recessed area onto the adjacent surfaces? If so, do you have wisdom for dealing with that? Thanks very much, Scott

    • Hi Scott, I thin the X-18 semigloss black with water.he mix is about 30% paint to 60% water. This mix is fairly transparent and is applied as a pin wash using a very fine, pointed brush usually over a glossy surface which tends to just darken the line rather than making it black. I try to paint it as accurately as possible keeping it all within the panel line and, because it is so watery, any overflow is easily wiped off while it is still wet. If I want darker lines, e.g. around exhaust outlets, I just add more black to the mix.
      I use X-18 because it flows a bit better and drys a little bit slower which makes it easier to work with.
      Hope this answers your question.

  4. Hi Chris: Take a look at the “Images At War Special: Tiger 1 and Tiger II”. A photo of your King Tiger (from Missing-Lynx) is freaking on the cover !

    You might want to contact the publishers about this. FYI

    • Thanks Roy, this relatively small image of my model was taken by Brett Green and, as far as I know, only appears on his web site. I’ll ring him and see what he knows about it.

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