Hasegawa 1/32 Focke Wulf Fw 190 A-5

fw190prtrnfweb

Fw 190 A-5 flown by Oblt. Walter Nowotny, Staffelkapitän of 1./JG 54, Russia, summer 1943.

fw190rivettoolweb

After some filling and re-scribing the first major job undertaken was to add the rivet detail. This was achieved with the aid of lots of Dymo tape as a straight edge, this MDC rivet punch and a good set of scale drawings.

fw190bellyrivetsweb

With the scale drawings as a guide, and using a small metal ruler and graphite pencil, the start and end points of the rivet lines were marked out as accurately as possible. An appropriate length of the adhesive Dymo tape was then stuck between the pencil marks and using the rivet punch, the lines of rivets were carefully pressed into the plastic. The spacing between each rivet is done purely by eye and therefore is not 100% accurate but with practice (and I’ve had lots) it becomes fairly automatic and the result quite acceptable.

fw190fusrivetsweb

In this shot of the left fuselage half, as well as rivets, you can also see some of the detail that has been filled using Milliput.

fw190tailrivetsweb

The extra effort taken in adding the rivet detail is time consuming but the result, although subtle, makes a big difference to the overall look and surface texture of the finished model.

fw190cockpitweb

In this shot of the almost complete cockpit tub can be seen the canopy guide rails which were added using Evergreen plastic strip.

fw190instweb

Each instrument dial was cut from the kit decal sheet and applied individually. Fiddly, but with these tired old eyes it’s a lot easier than painting ’em!

fwseatbeltsweb

Safety harnesses were made from paper-backed lead foil and fine wire bent to shape to form the buckles.

fw190undercartweb

Undercarriage parts plumbed, painted and waiting for installation.

fw190undersideweb

The yellow theatre markings and RLM 02 in the wheel wells and flaps were painted first and then masked off with Tamiya masking tape before the main camouflage colours were applied. In this shot the masking has been removed from the wing tips and wheel wells.

fw190ltgrncamweb

Upper surface colour application begins with the lighter of the two greens. This is my own field mix of RLM 71 Dark Green with about 30% RLM 82 Light Green to try and represent the improvised colour used by the JG 54 ground crews.

fw190fullcamoweb

RLM 70 Black Green was used as the second colour for the upper surface camouflage. Masking tape has now been removed from all yellow theatre markings.

fw190usdirtweb

With all camouflage colours applied, masking tape removed and panel lines drawn in with a very sharp 6B pencil, weathering has begun.

fw190allbitsfinweb

With all painting and weathering complete the model is just waiting for the installation of all its dangly bits.

fw190topprtcuweb

In this and the next close-up shot you can see how the rivets just show through the paint.

fw190stbcuweb

All the paint chips were carefully applied using a very sharp Prismacolor silver pencil. The light exhaust staining was achieved by first spraying Tamiya XF 57 Buff and then a patchy overspray of a very thin mix of Tamiya Red Brown and Flat Black. This colour was also used for the main, darker exhaust staining down the fuselage sides and the build-up along panel lines where appropriate.

fw190a5frtweb

The spiral on the spinner was carefully brush painted.

fw190prtweb

Nylon mono filament was used for the radio antenna with small drops of white glue for the insulators. The backs of the prop blades were first painted silver and then over-sprayed with RLM 70 leaving the tips silver.

fw190a5stbsdweb

The yellow markings were also dirtied up using the black/brown mix.

fw190stbrweb

My favourite angle of the 190. Markings are from EagleCals decal sheet EC#83 FW 190A-5s.

This entry was posted by Chris Wauchop.

40 thoughts on “Hasegawa 1/32 Focke Wulf Fw 190 A-5

  1. Hi Chris,
    Finally a new post! Good to have you back Chris. I was a bit worried, since you didn’t post anything for so long. Well, the wait was worth it! Excellent job on this one. And the ‘in progress’ photos are very welcome too. Freshly finished?

    Cheers,
    Tomasz

    • Hi Tomasz,
      This one has taken a while because we have been having some pretty major renovations done to the house. Almost back to normal now thankfully.

  2. Great stuff Chris, I used the same rivet tool on a 109 and I reckon that’s half the reason why I now wear glasses! Wish I had left mine a bit more raised though as I think yours has the ‘look’, particularly from low angles. Anyway, I always stop by to see your latest work and this is a masterpiece!!

    • Thanks Phil, and you’re right about the glasses.There are about double the number of rivets on the 190 though so I now also dribble and slur my speech a bit!

    • Thanks Roger. The 190 build is becoming a bit of a routine now, this being the seventh in this scale. It’s still my favourite though. Can’t wait to see what Zoukei Mura do with theirs!

  3. Some really top photos there Chris. I really like the close up of the fuselage from the portside, very nice ! Its always nice to see WIP pics and I think you nailed the colours and weathering spot on !
    Neat Freehand rivet spacing is not easy to accomplish either, well done.
    Definitely another Chris Wauchop classic, top stuff !!!

    Cheers
    Peter

  4. Thanks again Pete, I will try to take more build shots with the next one. When my client picked this one up he informed me that he had just ordered the new Tamiya Corsair so I will be building that one some time in the near future. Can’t wait!

    All the best
    Chris

  5. I still have stuff on HyperScale but that 109 is not mine. All the posts of my work are under my name, Chris Wauchop. And I think the reason that Brett does not use a bigger format is so other people can’t use the photos for publication! People rip my shots off all the time but I don’t really give a stuff so long as they give me some sort of credit!

  6. I know it’s not yours :o) I was saying this is Mr Chris B. who made that 109E-4/7 Trop
    saying as always I like your big model photos.
    About HyperScale small format – that is a good reason then to prevent copying.

  7. Hi Pete, Seasons Greetings, and no I haven’t been given the Corsair yet, so no photos. The pics of your stuff look great! Can’t wait to see them finished, especially the Spit! To fill in time before I get the Corsair I’ve been building a 1/72 Hasegawa Ki 67 ‘Peggy’ that I was asked to do years ago. I haven’t built a 72nd scale kit in quite a few years so it is taking a bit of time getting used to how small everything is, especially the Eduard P/E set that was supplied with it. It is looking pretty good though and the paint job takes no time at all so is good fun. I will post some shots here as soon as it is finished.

    All the best,

    Chris.

  8. Hello Chris!

    I’m a big fan of your work. I have a question for you though. Like you, I use the Aztek airbrush and really like it. However when doing Luftwaffe-mottles do you use the airbrush as a regular double-action airbrush pulling back on the trigger for paint or do you use the combined action available on the Aztek where air and paint is controlled by just pressing down on the trigger?

    You probably get this type of questions all the time, but what better way to learn techniques then from the master! 🙂

    Bedt Regards from Sweden!

    Emil

    • Hi Emil,
      Sorry I’ve taken so long to answer your question, but I have been busy getting photos ready of my next model for this blog plus writing an article for Brett’s mag.
      You’re right, I do get asked this question a lot and I always give the same answer- I basically use the Aztek as a single action brush, in that I set the needle to the width I require and just press the trigger straight down. When I need to vary the width of the spray I adjust it with the rear silver roller wheel. For spraying Luftwaffe mottle I usually have the needle set as fine as it will go and use it like a pen to draw the outline of the blotch. Once the outline is done I then fill it in with the airbrush on the same, fine, setting. To me this gives quite a realistic result and I use this method on all scales from 1/72 through to 1/24. It takes a little practice but, I think its worth the effort. Practice on an old model first.
      I’m sure there will be a bit of swearing, but when you master it you won’t use any other method!

      Hope this helps,

      Cheers from Oz!

      Chris

      • Thanks a lot Chris for helping me out! 🙂
        Looking forward to seeing your next model.

        All the best!

        Emil

  9. Hi Guillermo, sorry I have taken so long to answer your question but my server made a big change to their Dashboard and I hadn’t noticed the new ‘low-viz’ comment indicator until today. Anyway to answer your question, the reference I used as a guide for doing the rivet detail on this model are plan drawings by Rikyu Watanabe. These plans are in an old publication ‘The Great Book Of World War Two Aircraft’ from the 1980’s. I don’t think this book is available any more but I’m sure you can find similar plans on the net.

    Probably not the answer you wanted, but it’s the best I can do.

    Cheers,

    Chris.

    • Hello Chris,

      No problem, thanks for your answer. I can tell you that I know Watanabe’s artwork and I have three books with his job. Sadly, I don’t have Fw-190, but it looked like very known. Well, I will use Model Graphix plans to do this part.

      Thanks again
      Guillermo

  10. How´s it going, Chris?

    A very nice build, you should be well pleased.

    FW 190 is my favorite plane and in a summer camouflage scheme looks really beautiful. I´ve been comparing your kit to Kagero´s profile and the layout of the camouflage is very reliable. I agree with a soft chipping and I like weathering.

    Two questions:

    .- Why did you mix RLM71 with RLM82? According to recent studies RLM71 was the suitable color and I think RLM81 didn´t appear until the end of the war.
    .- Why did you leave the peaks of the back side of the propeller on natural metal?

    Related to Walter Nowotny´s planes I have the hasegawa kit of the FW 190 Wk-Nr 410004 famous for it was the plane with Nowotny achieved his 250th victory. Studying the camouflage model I´ve found different points of view and the profile varies depending on the kit manufacturer. Perhaps you have studied this aircraft, if so, I´d like to know your opinion about it and which one would be the best camouflage to represent this fighter.

    Looking forward to your reply.
    Regards,
    Oscar.

    • Hi Oscar, to answer your first question, there are quite a few colour photos of JG 54 FW 190s painted in non standard colours. These colours included various shades of green and sometimes brown. The colours I have used are my interpretation of the field mixes applied at squadron level. The lighter of the two greens was, I’m sure, sometimes RLM71 but in several of these colour photos it is obvious to my eye that a much brighter shade of green was used. I’m not saying that RLM82 was used in this field mix, only that it is the colour I have used in my mix. It has been suggested that captured Russian paint stocks were used in these mixes which, I think, was probably the case.
      In answer to your second question, the reason for showing bare metal on the back of the prop blades is to show the wear caused by the rough surface conditions of the airfields being used. There are plenty of photos showing this effect.
      As for Wk. Nr 410004, there are no colour photos of this aircraft but I’m pretty sure that it was painted using similar colours that I have used on 1501 just not covering the original grey mottle on its tail.

      Hope this answers your questions.
      If not let me know.

      Cheers,
      Chris.

  11. Chris, I’ve been staring at this model for ages, it’s so gorgeous! I’m building a 83″ wingspan RC model of the FW 190, I would love to try and recreate this paintscheme for it, although I cannot find any information at all on the internet about it. I could just use your photos as reference, but I’d love to actually see photos of it! If not this scheme I was thinking of making it an A7 of sturmstaffel 1, thanks! / John

  12. Hi John, there are only a couple of photos of this aircraft but there are some really good colour profiles around. The best of these are in Kagero’s publication ‘JG 54 Green Heart Fighters No. 97002’. This is a booklet containing photos, beautiful three view illustrations and decals for three different JG 54 aircraft and was the main reference I used when painting this model and I’m sure it’s still available and relatively inexpensive. As for a Sturmstaffel 1 190 A7, I’ve done one of them too! Lots of pics on Hyperscale.

    Cheers,
    Chris.

  13. Hi Chris,

    Found your wonderful A-5 build while searching the net for some news on ZM s FW190. Its funny to see that someone else has taken the time to do the whole fuselage of an 1/32 fighter. The result is stunning and you have my respect for having the model finished. Mine is a 2005 long term project and was converted into an A-4 with a circuit, lights, sound and motor in it. Everything running so far but I had to stop until Henri Dähne (friend of mine) had the new spinner and prop ready to replace the wrong Hasegawa ones. Cheers

    Danny alias fockewings

  14. Hi Danny, when you say “do the whole fuselage” I’m assuming that you are referring to the addition of the rivet detail. If this is right I will say that in this scale I do find it necessary to add this subtle, but quite visible detail to give the model a more realistic look. Would love to see yours when it’s finished.

    All the best,

    Chris.

  15. hi Chris, how do you know when to use a wash or a pencil for the panel lines? Also, what is your way of weathering leather seating surfaces and tarps, etc? Finally, what’s your fave way to realistically weathering a bare-metal plane?

    i hope i’m not asking too much, just enjoy your work so much and just want to learn a thing or two =D

    • Hi KAYSEE, to answer your first question I only use a pencil to define panel lines, rivets, etc when a light colour is the base. This light colour is usually an under surface colour like RLM 76 or 65 on Luftwaffe aircraft or Medium Sea Grey on RAF planes. This technique really only works on these, or similar, light colours. Of course it is only the first step in my weathering process. Lots of subtle shading with the airbrush follows. I use a very thin black wash when the panel lines, etc are being applied over darker cammo colours because the pencil shows up as too metallic!

      When a leather look is required the base colour (usually flat brown or similar) is sprayed and shaded with the airbrush. Once thoroughly dry I use either my finger or a fine Micromesh cloth to polish the matt paint until a smooth, low shine, leathery look is achieved. For tarps or canvas I first use a dark brown oil wash followed by careful shading with the airbrush.

      For bare metal sufaces I first apply a dark wash to the panel lines, etc and again use the airbrush for some subtle, or not so subtle shading depending on the effect I wish to achieve.

      Hope this answers your questions.

      Cheers,

      Chris.

  16. Hi Marc, the reference I used for the rivet pattern on this model are from drawings done by Rikyu Watanabe. These drawings were published by Bonanza Books in their ‘Great Book of World War II Airplanes’ back in the 80’s. I don’t think this book is still available but you might be able to find one on Ebay.

    Cheers,

    Chris.

Please comment

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: