Revell 1/32 Me262 A-1a

Me262 A-1a   SCHWALBE

Messerschmitt 262 A-1a flown by Unteroffizier Eduard Schallmoser, JV 44, München-Riem, Germany, April 20, 1945. Schallmoser was flying this aircraft when he accidentally rammed a P-38 Lightning, slicing its complete tail assembly off with the jet’s starboard wing. Sustaining only light damage, Schallmoser was able to return to base and land safely but I’m not sure whether this aircraft ever flew again.

The seat’s leather cushion was first sprayed matt orange and then carefully shaded with a thin mix of red brown. The deeper creases were then shaded with my black/brown mix. Cracks and scratches were brush painted using straight black and a lighter shade of the original orange. Once dry the cushion was rubbed with my greasy fingertip to give it the leathery sheen. Small wire loops were added to the top of the seat back as attachment points for the safety harness.

Cockpit interior waiting for the addition of instrument panel and safety harness.

Toe straps were added to the rudder pedals. These were made using thin strips of lead foil.

Lots of wiring was added to the back of the instrument panel using various gauges of lead wire.

As I was not sure how much of the wiring was going to be visible it only received a rough coat of yellow. Each separate instrument dial was cut from various decal sheets and added to the individual bezels after the complete panel had been painted.

HGW’s Micro fabric seatbelts and P/E buckles assembled and weathered.

Cockpit tub ready for instillation.

Underneath the cockpit tub with lots of wiring detail added. This area will be visible through the landing gear openings.

The kit’s ring pull handles in the tip of the bullet-shaped Riedel starter engine fairings were removed and replaced with finer scratch-built items.

A push rod was added to the rudder’s offset trim tab using fine brass wire.

If you do not want to build your model with open gun bay and engine cowlings then a fair bit of filling and sanding will be necessary because of the rather poor fit of these parts. Also I was not happy with the uneven contours around the front end of the nose and, again, a lot of filling and sanding was required to make this area look right. The tips of the cannons’ blast tubes were also added.

The emergency canopy release handle was added. This was made from Evergreen plastic strip that was cut and bent to shape.

Initial application of camouflage complete. The colours look very bright in these shots but once matted down and weathered the vibrance was reduced considerably. Also visible in this and the next couple of shots are rows of rivets that were added to the fuselage. I didn’t do any on the wings due to a severe lack of motivation.

Gloss coated with decals applied. The W.Nr. on the vertical tail was made using individual numbers cut from several different decal sheets.

I could not find a decal to match my reference for the tactical number ‘5’ so I drew it free-hand and scanned it into the computer and printed it to the correct size onto self adhesive paper. Using a new very sharp scalpel blade, masks were carefully cut out and the number was sprayed on both sides of the fuselage.

Cockpit interior complete.

In this shot you can see the tiny brass wire hook holding the radio antenna wire, the safety wire holding the open canopy, the locking  handle on the inside of the port canopy frame and the grab handle on the inside of the canopy centre frame.

All the dangly bits ready for installation. Lots of detail added to these parts including hydraulic and pneumatic lines, a new DF loop made from scrap P/E bent to shape, and the brass wire end on the FuG-16ZY antenna mast which is lying on top of the  new pitot tube made out of telescoping brass tube. Also note the authentically hand-painted No.5 on the front nose gear door.















This entry was posted by Chris Wauchop.

23 thoughts on “Revell 1/32 Me262 A-1a

  1. What else to say? Another stunning piece from your workbench Chris! How is your overall impression on this Revell release in terms of detail, accuracy etc.?

    Regards, Tomasz

    • Hi Tomasz, it’s all pretty good but in this scale I guess I expect it to be a lot better. I blame Tamiya for spoiling me with their efforts in this scale. I wish they would do something 1/32 WWII Luftwaffe.

      • Yeah, Tamiya spoiled us all 😉 Have you tried Trumpeter’s kits? They have some 1/32 Luftwaffe fighters, including couple of Schwalbe versions. Although, I’ve seen some comments that the Trumpeter 1/32 kits are over-engineered.

      • The Trumpeter kits that I have worked on were certainly over-engineered and inaccurate in places. Their 1/32 Mig 15 is one the very few kits that I have given up on and thrown in the trash. I’m afraid it’s Tamiya, Hasegawa or nothing.

  2. Once again, an astonishing end result Chris, everytime i come to see your work for inspiration and reference and a new kits is up there it’s pure joy. I love what you’ve done with the 1945 look on the schwalbe… great “fives”… cheers!

  3. Chris as always your finished product is very inspirational.
    I’m curious what colors/finishes you use on the oleo portions of your landing gear struts.
    Something about them just looks right to my eye.

  4. Chad the oleos were first sprayed with Alclad II Lacquer Chrome. A thin black line was then carefully brush painted at each end. These were then very subtly shaded with the black brown mix that I use on just about everything. I really must emphasise the subtlety of this shading. It’s very easy to go too far.

    Hope this explains it.


  5. Chris
    Outstanding job as always, another masterpiece. Curious about the colors and clear coats you used on your Schwalbe. What brand and which colors did you use for the main interior color and top/bottom exterior camo colors? What color did you paint the Jumo engine inlet starter cone and exhaust cone? In the past you’ve said you only apply gloss coat on aircraft where decals are applied. Did you do that here, or use an overall gloss coat and which brand did you use? Also, which brand/type of flat coating did you employ? Do you thin these clear coats like you do camo paint, or straight from the bottle?
    Thanks for sharing your superb work with us.

    • Glad you like it Scott, the main cammo colours are all Gunze Sangyo Aqueous Hobby Color and they are H417 RLM76 Light Blue, H421 RLM81 Brown Violet and H422 RLM82 Light Green. For the cockpit interior colour I used Tamiya XF-24 Dark Grey. This is bit lighter than RLM66 but I think it looks a bit better in scale. The engine inlet starter cones and exhaust onions were painted with Alclad Lacquer ALC 106 White Aluminum. The exhaust onions were given a thin coat of flat white over this colour to match my reference. I use undiluted Future Floor Polish as my gloss coat and I do tend to only cover the areas where the decals are to be applied. My flat coat of choice is Windsor & Newton Galleria Acrylic Mediums Matt Varnish which I do thin with about 30% Iso Propyl Alcohol.

      Hope this is enough info. Let us know if it’s not.


  6. Hi Chris, I haven’t left a coment in a while so I thought I’d better check in and say I’ve thoroughly enjoyed all your last couple of builds. They’re Inspirational as always ! I always wait with antisipation to see what you do next.

    I also have the revel Me 262 wating patiently in the stash but I have to finish all the kits I got on the go at the moment. I’m working on the Has. 1:32 bf109g-6 and the Revell 1:32 He 219 …… and a few others…. ahhhhh !

    I hope all is well with you and your family down under
    Peter Olsen

  7. Hi Pete, great to hear from you again. Sounds like you’ve got plenty to keep you busy while we get through this. Just want to say that if I was to do another Revell 262 I would lengthen the nose wheel oleo by about 1mm. This will make the model sit with a slightly tail heavy attitude which is how most of the operational Schwalbes look in my references. Also don’t forget the prop blades on the He 219 which have the same concave profile on their front as well as their back. A pain in the arse to fix but, I think, necessary.
    We’re all doing well and hope you are as well.


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